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Different
Shades of Rosé
The
Complexity of a Simple Wine
by
Jacques Vigne
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Château
Dudon Bordeaux
Rosé 2003 |
Rosé
has an ambiguous reputation as a fruity summer wine, "feminine"
wine or overly simple wine. Most wine drinkers don't realize that
rosés,
especially well-made dry rosés, can be just as complex as
their white or red counterparts. (Try them in a blind tasting and
see what happens—you will not be able to distinguish them
from red or white wines!) In the United States, rosé is finally
sheddings its negative image and making a comeback. But to better
appreciate this misunderstood wine, we will travel to France, where
some of the world's best rosés are produced, and learn just
how good rosé is made.
For
a rosé, color is essential—it's a major aspect of its
appeal. It is impossible to define the "correct" color
of rosé wine, which can range from pale pink to light red.
While some wines are salmon-hued, others are tinged with fuchsia
or mauve and even hints of orange and beige. The vast range of colors
depends on the richness of the grape's phenolic compounds, specifically
its red pigments (anthocyanins)
found in the skin and duration of contact with the skin.
The
downside of rosés, which are synonymous with fruity refreshment
and bulk wines, is that they are often adulterated with too much
alcohol or sulfites, causing unpleasant side effects such as headaches
and upset stomachs. In fact, in 1980, only one out of five French
rosés was decent, according to Lucien Peyraud, pioneer of
the renaissance of Bandol wines.
How
Rosé Wine is Made: Bleeding, Pressing and Limited Maceration
The
great discrepancies in the quality of rosé depend on the
way it is produced, which is based on specific techniques of vinification.
There are three types of rosés: one that is "bled"
(saignée), one that is "pressed" (pressurage) and
one that is in minimal contact with the skins (limited maceration).
For
“bled” rosés, the winemaker extracts a certain
quantity of red juice, or "jus de saignée," from
a vat of fermenting red grapes, which is then put in steel vats
during the fermenting process. This method allows wine producers
to increase the concentration of a red wine that may be overly diluted
due to excessive juice in the grape or a premature harvest. This
explains why so many wine producing regions make this type of rosé,
which is often of an mediocre quality.
The
other technique, "pressurage," involves pressing dark
skinned white grapes to obtain a sufficient blush color. After the
pressing, the process of vinification is the same as it is for a
white wine (see How
White Wine is Made). Note, however, that blending white and
red wines to make rosé is forbidden, except in the Champagne
appellation.
The
most common method is limited maceration. This process is basically
the same as the one for producing red wine except that limited maceration
of the skins produces a lighter or rosé color.
A
New Surge in Popularity
Historically, rosé wine practically disappeared in the 19th
century and in the first half of the 20th century. Red wine was
reserved for peasants and workers, while rosé became the
wine of choice for the middle class in the 1960's. Today, there
is a new surge in the popularity of rosés, associated with
sun and summer fun.
Its
origin, however, is much older and dates back to the production
of Claret in the Bordeaux
region during the 15th century. The grapes, which were mostly white,
were crushed by foot and left to ferment overnight. The extracted
juice was then transferred to a barrel to continue the fermenting
process. The longer the juice remained in contact with the skins,
the darker the color of the wine, which was called vermillion. Due
to its sour taste, it was not enjoyable unless diluted with water.
Today,
Claret is still produced in the Bordeaux region using Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes. The tinted juice is separated
from the fruit and then left to ferment, resulting in a fruity,
refreshing and lightly sparkling wine. Despite their popularity
in the United Kingdom, the rosés of Bordeaux are not well
known nor distributed in France. There are some excellent ones,
such as Jean Merlaut's Château Dudon (AOC), and unexpected
ones like La Lagune, a rosé "table wine" with a
slightly sparkling quality. Pinot from Marsanay—the only tri-color
commune in Burgundy—is
"bled" yet produces an excellent, full-bodied rosé
redolent of red currant. There are also some interesting cheaper
finds, such as a rosé from Antonin Rodet.
While
the South East remains the preferred rosé-producing region—with
its Tavel and Lirac Côtes du Rhônes, its old provençal
vineyards in Palette, Bandol or Bellet in Nice,
the Coteaux-Varois, and the rosés of Aix and of Provence—the
majority of other wine-producing regions are now seeing la vie
en rose.
French
Rosé Selections
AOC
Bordeaux, Château Dudon Bordeaux Rosé
2003; 3.20€
Even if Jean Merlaut adopts the old tradition of clarets, his salmon-hued
rosé proves less intense with aromas of peach and nectarine
lingering pleasantly. To be consumed chilled but not ice-cold, with
salads, fish, grilled meats and a strawberry soufflé.
Château
Dudon
33880 Baurech
05 57 97 77 35
www.jean-merlaut.com
French
Table Wine, Le Rosé De La Lagune; 6€
A combination of grapes including Cabernet Franc give this wine
a color similar to a Claret and a frank, robust flavor that is fruity
and refreshing. Enjoy the subtly sparkling sensation.
Château
La Lagune
81, avenue de l'Europe
33290 Ludon
05 57 88 82 77
AOC
Burgundy, Bourgogne Rosé; 4€
With this generic rosé, Antonin Rodet wanted to offer a simple
but good wine, clearly identified by its sole cépage, Pinot
Noir. Its color is that of a pale blush Pinot while the flowery
aroma precedes a balanced fruity flavor. This wine should be consumed
chilled, with charcuterie items, grilled meats and fresh cheeses.
Attractive price.
Maison
Antonin Rodet
71640 Mercurey
03 85 98 12 12
www.rodet.com
Vin
de Pays d'Oc Rosé, Le
JaJa de Jau 2004; 4,50€
Composed of both Syrah and black Grenache grapes which are vinified
separately, this nicely colored rosé offers a bouquet of
raspberries with a hint of acidity, which makes for a simple, uncomplicated
wine that is easy to drink. Ideal for a picnic or an aperitif.
Château
de Jau
66600 Cases-de Pène
04 68 38 90 10
These
wines can be purchased at fine wine stores nationwide.
To find a store near you, see our listing of Best
Wine Shops.
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