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August 2006
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Tablas Creek Vineyard 2005 Rosé
Tablas
Creek Vineyard brings you an intense rosé from
its Estate
program on the Westside of Paso Robles, Calif. Emulating
a southern Rhône formula, but with a dominance of
Mourvedre and therefore more like a Bandol than a Tavel,
this vino is a good bet for your summer sipping enjoyment.
In a way, it’s not a wine for beginners and it takes
a little getting used to its aromas of sage and juniper.
There is also watermelon and white plum in there somewhere,
a touch of red fruit and a few other earthy characteristics
leading you to a robust finish. Good balance and acidity
give it a distinguished feel, which will pair well with
sushi or Mediterranean-inspired dishes with plenty of
garlic and olive oil. You can also sip it slowly on its
own, and letting it show you its delicious complexity.
Rating:
14.5/20
Price: $27
Other Rosés
we've tasted
Check out our guide to California
For more information, visit www.tablascreek.com |
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Sesquipedalian 2005 Sauvignon Blanc by Cole Bailey Vineyards
In
the ironic words of Cole Bailey Vineyards, a sesquipedalian
is a “sophistical rhetorician with the exuberance
of his own verbosity.” Or in other words, an intellectual
poser who uses $100 words when simpler ones would suffice.
With tongue firmly planted in cheek, Cole Bailey says
they chose this name because hand-crafted wine is the
divine right of the upper class rather than the huddled
masses—the high-brow, multi-syllabic moniker dissuades
such non-elite riffraff. Of course, all of this is a joke,
but the wine under the cork certainly isn’t. In
not so many words (we wouldn’t want to be accused
of being a sesquipedalian), let’s try to describe
this well-made, fresh Sauvignon Blanc, perfect for a summer
day or evening of light foods. The pale yellow juice with
a green hue shows off scents of melons, and summer’s
white fleshy fruits. Exhibiting good acidity with a medium
body, this citrusy beverage does not have the sometimes
off-putting “pipi de chat” smell, which is
typical of pedigree Sauvignon
Blanc from France
and New
Zealand. It is supple on the palate and delivers a
long finish. Shrimp and pasta dishes, or salads would
partner well with the Sesquipedalian’s character.
Rating:
14/20
Price: $18
Other Sauvignon
Blancs we've tasted
Check out our guide to California
For more information, visit www.colebailey.com |
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J. Schram 1998 Rosé
At
just about the same time we published our unique “Guide
to the Best Wineries of North America” in 1998,
the winemaking team at Schramsberg—headed by Jack
and Jamie Davies—set out to develop a flagship Rosé,
produced in a very artisanal fashion. This is a Méthode
Champenoise American sparkling wine made to rival the
best from Champagne,
with a perfect assemblage from selected grapes of prized
vineyards: 50 percent Napa, 21 percent Mendocino, 18 percent
Monterey and 11 percent Marin.
Today,
second-generation vintner Hugh Davies is proud to bring
to market a limited-production release that is sure to
be a conversation popper. “This is a polished marriage
of Chardonnay (76 percent) and Pinot Noir (24 percent),”
says Davies. “We have weaved together small lots
of wines fermented in stainless steel tanks with lots
fermented in French oak barrels.”
As
we sampled this $120 cuvée, our taste buds could
not disconnect from Champagne
benchmarks and it was rather tricky to be a fair judge—especially
considering all our reviewed wines are rated on the same
scale. One thing to keep in mind is that this bottle was
aged for seven years following secondary fermentation,
although we think it could age for a longer time and still
present an intense and distinguishingly refreshing character.
The fine bubbles reveal an array of flavors in this dark
pink sparkler. There is spice and there is fruit, with
a dominance of berry and citrus flavors on the palate.
“This Rosé is aged and complete, with elegance
and distinction,” claims winemaker Craig Roemer.
You may certainly enjoy it by itself, but this robust
beverage can take you through a meal as well.
Rating:
16.5/20
Price: $120
Other Sparkling
Wines we've tasted
Check out our guide to California
For more information, visit www.schramsberg.com/jschram.htm |
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2003 Château Brane-Cantenac
Since
1925, the Lurton family has been striving to produce exceptional
French wine. Certainly, they can count on their quality
land in Bordeaux yielding an outstanding terroir, a philosophy
of improving quality year after year, and a dynamic winemaking
team. With this 2003 Margaux, we think owner and general
manager Henri Lurton has achieved his goal of putting
a great bang-for-the-buck wine in your glass. This dark
ruby red juice with purple hues is quite pleasant already,
although it will continue to age beautifully for a couple
of decades. It is after that time that you will truly
appreciate its vanilla and toasty character in all of
its complexity. Even now, you can enjoy the black fruit
in it, along with pepper and tobacco aromas. A good structure
ensures this vino a long healthy life; enjoy it with a
simple steak frites or a more sophisticated dish detailed
in a distinguished cookbook.
Rating:
15.5/20
Price: $60
Other Reds
we've tasted
Check out our guide to France
For more information, visit www.brane-cantenac.com |
Read
about the wine world's most influential critic: Robert
Parker, Jr.
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