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October 2006
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Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2002
John
Riddoch established Wynns Coonawarra Estate in Australia
in 1896 on the now-famous Terra Rossa plot, where the
soil is known to produce quality grapes with intensity.
Always proponents of blends, we applaud this judicious
mix of classic Bordeaux varietals and the now-classic
Australian varietal Shiraz from the first winery established
in Coonawarra. Winemaker Sue Hodder created this wine
to be enjoyed now or for short-term cellaring, so don’t
be afraid to open a bottle sooner rather than later to
discover a wine with an attractive dark fruit nose complemented
by floral scents and notes of mint. You won’t be
disappointed later by its soft tannins and complex flavors
like chocolate and smoke. This dark beverage is lighter
than you might expect, but it has good balance, backbone
structure and controlled alcohol (13 percent). We recommend
it with venison.
Rating:
14/20
Price: $16
Other red
blends we've tasted
Check out our guide to Australia
For more information, visit www.wynns.com.au
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Joseph Phelps 2004 Sonoma-Napa Chardonnay
Joseph
Phelps is a man with a passion for quality, especially
when it comes to wine. His name is synonymous with top-quality
Bordeaux-style wine from the Napa Valley. “I am
very fortunate,” Phelps says. “I have been
able to combine the relaxed and less demanding lifestyle
of farming with a fulfilling commitment to quality and
a life-long affection for fine wines.” Phelps grew
up on a farm and built a construction company after serving
in the Korean War. He now lives on a ranch overlooking
his picturesque winery, while the business activities
are left in the expert hands of his son Bill Phelps, winery
President Tom Shelton and Winemaker Craig Williams.
Phelps’
Insignia that debuted in 1974 is today one of the most
cherished treasures from Napa’s chest. A quite decent
Rhône-style blend, Le
Mistral is a favorite as well. But if you can’t
find or afford the $165 needed to acquire the most recent
30th
Anniversary Insignia, check out this week’s
offering. The 2004 Joseph Phelps Chardonnay is a blend
of Napa and Sonoma fruit that will make a robust addition
to your Thanksgiving
table—you’ll want to pair it with turkey and
gravy. With an intense gold color, this beverage greets
you with a punch of traditional Chardonnay
scents, and although a bit high in alcohol, it is not
too oaky. It has the legs of a speed skater; it will linger
in your mouth and take you to a long finish.
Rating:
14/20
Price: $48
Other Chardonnays
we've tasted
Check out our guide to California
For more information, visit www.jpvwines.com |
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Hacienda Araucano 2002 Alka Carménère
It’s
all about Carménère this week. The quasi-unheard-of
grape varietal makes a comeback in a bottling of an ultra-premium
wine crafted by the famous brother team of Jacques and
François Lurton. Their Chilean project at Hacienda
Araucano in the Colchaqua Valley helps revive a long-lost
French grape. Carménère was once sought
after as a king of winemaking grapes along with Cabernet
Sauvignon in Bordeaux, but it was entirely destroyed by
phylloxera during the late 1800s. In the 1990s, though,
it was discovered that much of Chile’s Merlot grapes
were in fact Carménère—left over from
original vines brought over from France before the phylloxera
plague. Hence, Bordeaux’s lost grape has become
a national “heirloom” in Chilean winemaking.
There is no doubt that this wine is well made, full of
life and terroir characteristics. However, like most wines,
you’ll want to age it. Having said that, you’ll
be greeted by a gorgeous deep blood red color, as well
as aromas of vanilla and black cherry. You are sure to
appreciate its elegance and superb balance on the palate.
There is red fruit concentration, supple tannins and an
even finish with dark berry flavors and dried cranberries.
We would consider pairing it with fish, poultry and white
meats, and perhaps duck.
Rating:
15/20
Price: $65
Other reds
we've tasted |
October 23, 2006
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Fetzer
Vineyards 2005 Valley Oaks German Riesling
Fetzer
Vineyards is based in Mendocino, Calif., but this bottle
actually comes from Germany. It’s a simple and enjoyable
wine, good for sipping at parties during the holidays, goes
well with an array of foods and, best of all, at just $8,
you'll have plenty of cash left over to buy gifts. Winemaker
Dennis Martin figured that it could not be a bad thing to
produce a wine varietal from its original terroir, and decided
to produce his new offering with a 2005 release. Originating
from the Mosel-Saar and the Rheinhessen wine regions, this
bottle brings back aromas of peach, citrus and jasmine.
The light gold beverage is well-balanced with a medium body
showing flavors of apricots and quince. It’s a dry
Riesling with little residual sugar and only 10.5% alcohol
by volume, so even the lightest of wine drinkers will greatly
appreciate it. Still, we’d recommend pairing it with
Asian cuisine, fish and white meats such as pork served
with fruit.
Rating:
14/20
Price: $8
Other Rieslings
we've tasted
Check out our guide to
Germany
For more information, visit www.fetzer.com
Read about an old vintage: "Fetzer
of Yesteryear" |
October 30, 2006
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Jorian
Hill 2004 Syrah - Santa Ynez Valley
A
search for Jorian Hill on Google Earth will prove fruitless.
The name is actually a combination of Jordan, Reed and Hillary,
the offspring of Gary Newman, President of 20th Century
Fox Television, and his wife Jeanne, a top entertainment
lawyer. The couple bought a sustainably farmed winery in
Santa Barbara County's Ballard Canyon to get away from “the
industry” where the kids can get in touch with nature.
From their southwesterly facing 7.5-acre plot in the Santa
Ynez Valley where they planted mostly Syrah,
Viognier
and some Grenache come the grapes for this exclusive bottling.
The ’04 is indeed their inaugural release (650 cases)
and the wine is available at a handful of shops in Southern
California and via their website. Bruno D’Alfonso
has been recruited to make the wine using traditional Northern
Rhône methods, and everything is handcrafted in small
batches. The result is a terroir oriented wine, which lets
the grapes express themselves. The wine is dark and concentrated,
releasing earthy scents of blackberries and cassis. You’ll
discover soft tannins, hints of plums and plenty of spices
along the lines of thyme and bay leaf on the palate. Two
more years in the bottle will allow the wine a chance to
show some of its real potential. Pair it with barbecued
tri-tip and assorted grilled vegetables.
Rating:
13/20
Price: $30
Other Syrahs
we've tasted
Check out our guide to
California
For more information, visit www.jorianhill.com
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Read
about the wine world's most influential critic: Robert
Parker, Jr.
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