Champagne Deutz 1997 Brut Rosé

Should you be a Pinot Noir lover and still shy about Champagne, you’ll have no excuse with this offering from the prestigious House of Deutz. In fact, you might simply fall in love with it because it’s made with 100% Pinot Noir grapes from a special vineyard located on the Montagne de Reims. Despite its composition, the color remains quite light with a slight purple hue, and actually comes from the addition of the dosage of Ay red wine. You are greeted by small but robust bubbles and a complex nose of red berries and tropical fruits leading to a solid beverage with yeasty, nutty, toasty and buttery flavors. Deeper on the palate you’ll pick out the red berries again; all of this elegance and complexity takes you through a very long and progressive finish. We would definitely drink this one by itself, but it actually will hold its own against many of the dishes you may encounter this holiday season. Looking for a gift? You’ll be sure to impress your guest with this talented bottle.

Rating: 16.5/20
Price: $60

To purchase, visit wine.com
More Sparkling Wines and Champagne

Champagne Pommery N.V. Brut Rosé

So just when you think you’ve had them all, here is one more great Champagne. This one’s from the House of Pommery. Not inexpensive and not readily available, this cuvée is quite delectable. For one thing, this bottle has a distinct character, with a somewhat more robust nose and taste: yeasty, heavy on the nuts. Many layers reveal surprising flavors. Constituted primarily with Chardonnay, they blend in Pinot Noir, and for good measure, some Pinot Meunier. Despite the fact that the Pinot Noir is elaborated separately as a red wine, the finished beverage remains golden in color with not even a salmon hue. The wine will withstand food and that’s a good thing for those of you that want to dine on Champagne. You may actually pair it with white meats, many desserts and there is nothing wrong with drinking it by itself to ring in the New Year.

Rating: 16.5/20
Price: $70

To purchase, visit www.pommery.com
More Sparkling Wines and Champagne

Villiera Brut Tradition

Let’s head “Down under” for this one and offer you a great value for your holiday celebrations. In fact, when was the last time you tasted a sparkler from South Africa? You’re in luck with this one. The family-run vineyard and winery enable the terroir to come through into the bottle and deliver consistent quality. Pop a bottle to release the yeasty aromas followed by scents of sweet citrus and apples. Look at the fine mousse and drink the elegant gold-hued juice to give your palate good satisfaction. Enjoy this wine by itself or try it with smoked salmon.

Rating: 13.5/20
Price: $16

To purchase, visit www.villiera.com
More Sparkling Wines and Champagne

Perrier Jouët 1999 Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blancs

Only a couple of countries (the U.S. being one) are lucky enough to get this new offering from the folks of the Maison Belle Epoque. It is a rare treat, making it quite a pricey Champagne. But in Vintage years, you will get 100% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs—specifically from the village of Cramant. Among the best, there is no doubt that you will experience a sublime wine when you pop this one open. As recently tasted, the wine is crisp and fresh with a light gold color. You might sniff flowering lilacs, ruby grapefruits and other citrus-based scents. Behind an even mousse you will discover flavors of honey, vanilla and apples. Thanks to a great balance, the layering and complexity will deliver an outstanding wine in a few years (yes, it’s okay to age Champagne). Osetra caviar and lobster anyone? These are the things reserved for elegant and rare occasions.

Rating: 17/20
Price: $220

To purchase, visit www.perrier-jouet.com
More Sparkling Wines and Champagne

Olson Ogden 2002 Syrah

May we offer you something new from the Unti Vineyard of the Dry Creek Valley? An emerging boutique winery sets out to produce killer Rhone-style wines. In the future there will be some blends but currently they are releasing this 2002 Syrah… which you will want to age for a bit. It is a thick deep red beverage that lets scents of berries, violets, light spices and slight smoke escape. Full bodied, the opaque juice is robust and complex with flavor in layers that lead to an infinitesimal finish with a toasted oak accent. Don’t bring this one to a cocktail party, but rather serve it alongside an equally robust peppered steak.

Rating: 14/20
Price: $29

To purchase, visit www.olsonogdenwines.com
More Syrahs

2000 Pellegrini Vineyards Cabernet Franc
(85% Cabernet Franc, 14% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot)

Pellegrini Vineyards employs a vineyard management and winemaking philosophy that focuses on the fruit, resulting in wines that stay true to the given varietal. This holds true with their Merlots and Chardonnays, but they also offer an excellent Cabernet Franc. The North Fork of Long Island is currently recognized primarily for Merlot, but Cab Franc is an up and coming varietal that grows very well in this young region—a region that sees weather similar to that of Bordeaux. Pellegrini's 2000 release was bottled unfiltered and aged in French and Hungarian oak for 17 months. Violet and mint on the nose are complemented by dark berries along with the wine's roundness and long, pleasant finish. This versatile wine would pair well with aged cheeses, duck or even a Thanksgiving turkey dinner.

Rating: 14/20
Price: $18

To purchase, visit www.pellegrinivineyards.com
More Cabernet Francs

Yorkville Cellars 1999 Richard the Lion-Heart

The trusty beloved King lends his name to this select cuvée from a winery using only organically grown grapes. The point here is that the finished product should taste exactly like the terroir in which the grapes are grown, since no chemical has destroyed the natural elements. A healthy by-product is that you don’t ingest those chemicals either —and you can possibly do away with some of those pesky headaches.... One thing is for sure (and also unusual) — it has a low alcohol content at 12.5%. Another rare characteristic of this California wine is that it is made up of the five Bordeaux varietals. The result: you get a somewhat dark wine with a strawberry and cherry nose. In the mouth it shows a medium body with some tannins followed by a mild chocolate taste on the finish. Good with ribs and other meats and possibly with pasta dishes.

Rating: 13/20
Price: $28

To purchase, visit www.yorkville-cellars.com
More Meritage and Bordeaux Wines
More about Organic Wines

Alexander Valley Vineyards 2002 Two Barrel

The Wetzels, owners of Alexander Valley Vineyards, have developed a privileged relationship with their Wine Club members, and decided to collaborate on a special wine. The Two Barrel selection, which is now produced annually (only 500 cases), is the result of a series of trials. The bottom line is that they mix one part Syrah with one part Merlot and get a wine that is lighter in color that you might expect, with blueberry aromatics. In the mouth it remains medium-bodied with soft tannins and reveals flavors of plum and chocolate. The finish is a bit disappointing, but then again you get a different wine that won’t break the bank…and we think it would actually work well with turkey.

Rating: 13/20
Price: $19

To purchase, visit www.avvwine.com
Other Red Blends

Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Maipo Chile 2002 Escudo Rojo

We could have titled the review bargain of the week. Or we could have said that this is what every $40 bottle of wine should taste like. But we will simply say that we liked this wine very much and at an average price of $14, you certainly can’t go wrong. Leave it to the expert winemaking team of Baron Philippe de Rothschild to put to use the right grapes from the right vineyards of Chile and the proper vinification and maturing techniques. You get a concept perfected in Bordeaux for a few centuries with the addition of the indigenous Carmenère grape and terroir characteristics. In the end, the wine has a slightly different nose, but you will pick out ripe fruits ranging from blackcurrant to dried apricots. In the mouth a velvety beverage with creamy tannins will linger to reveal some spice, tobacco, coffee and perfumy vanilla. Flank steak anyone?

Rating: 14/20
Price: $14

To purchase, visit www.bpdr.com
Meritage & Bordeaux

Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage

The famed Champagne house in Reims just let loose a non-vintage Rosé Sauvage, a newfangled Champagne that mixes still red wine into the traditional Cuvée Brut recipe. The result is a wine with a surprising dark red hue. Beyond that, the wine is quite refreshing with citrus flavors and blood orange character. Tack on cherry, strawberry and plum and you get a virtual firework. Despite all this wildness, the crisp beverage comes together in perfect harmony and deliver elements of richness. We would love to let this one age and pair it with roasted duck breast.

Rating: 13/20
Price: $45

To purchase, visit www.piper-heidsieck.com
Other Sparklers

Masi 2002 Masianco

Masi is located in the heart of the Valpolicella in the Verona area. Known for its red wines, including Amarone and Recioto, Masi also has this interesting signature white offering (the name Masianco simply comes from combining "Masi" with the Italian word for white, "bianco"). The wine combines two indigenous grape varieties that are harvested and vinified separately: Pinot Grigio (75%) is vinified immediately while Verduzzo (25%) is further ripened on racks for three weeks after being harvested. The combination of these two grapes produces a well-balanced, fresh wine featuring an herbaceous, citrusy nose complemented by pear and melon fruit in the mouth. Masianco pairs nicely with most hors d’oeuvres and also works well with many fish dishes.

Rating: 14/20
Price: $15

To purchase, visit www.masi.it
Other White Blends

Summerland 2002 Odyssey-Thurlestone Vineyard Pinot Noir

Looking for a pampered Pinot? Consider Summerland’s single-vineyard collection, a new twist for the winery that focuses on the distinctive terroir of California’s Central Coast. For this member of the collection, the winery staff spent a total of six years conditioning the ancient volcanic and marine soils of the Odyssey-Thurlestone Vineyard at the foot of Mt. Islay before planting the first vine. Then the grapes, which yielded about 1 ½ tons per acre, were carefully fermented and hand-crafted into this bottling. You get outstanding berry aromas and a full-bodied mouthful of berry and cherry flavors. But skip the peppered rib-eye—that would overpower this garnet-colored gem. Try it with filet mignon with a little roasted garlic instead.

Rating: 15/20
Price: $28

To purchase, visit www.summerlandwine.com
Other Pinot Noirs

October 1 , 2004

Mills Reef 2000 Elspeth One

Here is that topic again about drinking wines once they’ve aged a bit. This is a 2000 and since it’s from New Zealand, it’s got six more months on the Northern Hemisphere-like vintage; still you’d want to put it away for a while. And no, it’s neither a Sauvignon Blanc nor a Pinot Noir, but rather a good old-fashioned Bordeaux blend with a little Syrah added for good measure. This is a serious full-bodied offering with a very ripe fruit component and a palate of flavors. We had it a couple of times and were positively surprised by the handcrafted quality. Extended cellaring did proper justice, but this baby remains young. Should you have it now, give it a few minutes before you sit down to eat your steak.

Rating: 14.5/20
Price: $45

To purchase, visit www.millsreef.co.nz
More Red Blends
Going to New Zealand?

September 23, 2004

Mouton Cadet Blanc 2003 Bordeaux

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier? What will it be? How about a good old traditional White Bordeaux from a reputable house that won’t break the bank? September oftentimes brings with it an Indian summer, so if you find yourself in need of a cooling agent, may we suggest this new release. Blended of Semillion, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle — from the entre-deux-mers — this wine has a noble character and lets you discover its multi-layers of fresh, fruity, flowery aromas and aromatics. An inviting light gold color lets you in on the palate of tropical scents and flavors, citrus and licorice. Pair it with broiled halibut with rice in a vanilla reduction.

Rating: 14.5/20
Price: $9

To purchase, visit www.bpdr.com
More White Blends
Going to France?

September 17, 2004

Atlas Peak 2000 Consenso Cabernet Sauvignon

More and more large wineries are bottling limited production wines, and the folks at Atlas Peak are not immune to that trend. Take, for example, this offering from Darren Proscal. In a base of Cabernet Sauvignon, he blends Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese from estate-grown grapes handpicked on the hills directly west of the winery. Ageing lasts twenty months in a combination of new and two year old French oak. The result? You get a full-bodied wine with a long multi- flavored finish. We’re talking anything from berries to tobacco via spices. Black fruit and vanilla characteristics would lead you to pair it with a good steak or wild game.

Rating: 14/20
Price: $30

To purchase, visit atlaspeak.com
More Cabernet Sauvignons

September 10, 2004

D.R. Stephens 2002 Chardonnay

The long 2002 growing season in the Los Carneros appellation produced this medium-bodied, well-balanced Chardonnay, of which only 975 cases were made. The light golden wine has hints of jasmine and marshmallow on the nose and provides plenty of ripe pineapple flavors, mixed with a touch of pie spices and a light mineral tang. Hand-harvested and aged in 100% new French oak barrels, this offering is the diametric opposite of heavy, buttery Chardonnays and has a zippy, clean citrus finish. Crack a chilled Dungeoness crab or roast some teriyaki quail and enjoy.

Rating: 14.5/20
Price: $40

To purchase, visit www.drstephenswines.com
Other Chardonnays

September 3, 2004

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Sublime

Slip this vibrant new offering out of its sexy purple sleeve, and you may notice something sublime. Piper-Heidsieck is showing its sweet side with this Demi-Sec cuvée, but don’t be fooled by the “semi-dry” moniker: this is a sweet sparkler. Demi-Secs by definition contain more residual sugar, and this selection is no exception. Winemaker Régis Camus chose Piper Heidsieck's characteristic cuvée as a base and has accentuated softer aromas of flowers, dried fruits, vanilla and cinnamon. The result is a Champagne with deeper, stronger undertones. A combination of freshness and fullness on the palate reveals hints of caramelized pineapple, with vanilla and cinnamon spices displaying a warm finish. Pair it with your Labor Day Key lime pie or fruit salad to bid summer a sweet adieu.

Rating: 13/20
Price: $38

Are you a Champagne lover? Check out our 72-hour Trip to Reims!
To purchase, visit www.piper-heidsieck.com

August 27, 2004

2000 Clos Du Val Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Once upon a time, we had a Zinfandel. In fact, it was about three years ago, and the wine was a 1972 Clos Du Val. The point of the story is that it was one of the best Zins we’ve ever had. The funny thing about the story is that, not only did a Frenchman make the wine, but also that it was the Frenchman’s first wine in California. Bernard Portet has produced great wines over the years and has established a reputation for indisputable quality. This reserve cuvee won’t disappoint, even at its ‘tres’ expensive level. These heavy glass bottles set the pace for what’s coming. You can expect a thick, deep, dark red beverage that will soften up over the years. It is definitely well-crafted and pleasant in the mouth, with ripe tannins and good balance. The long maturation in barrels gave the wine a noble style with flavors of rich fruits, hazelnut cream and vanilla on the long finish. Please, hold it in the cellar and pair it with a lightly cooked duck breast.

Rating: 17/20
Price: $95

To purchase, visit www.closduval.com

August 20, 2004

2000 Atlas Peak Sangiovese

There are more and more Sangioveses coming out of California, and the varietal is now developing a following. Oftentimes, the primary grape is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon or another grape; in this case we have 14% Merlot, 4% Syrah and 2% Petit Verdot. Piero Antinori is credited for bringing in the vines, which thrive on the east side mountains of the Napa Valley. True to its Italian roots, the fruit delivers a beverage with spicy character. Smooth tannins, a good balance, ripe fruits and coffee flavors match up to give you a pleasant wine for your summer barbecued foods.

Rating: 13/20
Price: $16

To purchase, visit atlaspeak.com

August 13, 2004

Sparkling Okunomatsu Junmai Daiginjo “FN”

French Formula One winners receive a baptism of Champagne Mumm; Japanese drivers celebrate with sparkling Okunomatsu Junmai Daiginjo “Formula Nippon” sake. Let’s hope they save some of this lively brew to drink, too. Sparkling sakes are a relatively new innovation in Japan, and Okunomatsu, produced in the Yamaguchi Prefecture on the western end of the island of Honshu, turns out a polished bottling that has notes of banana and candied sugar on the nose, with honeydew melon on the finish. The secondary fermentation in the bottle gives the wine a lemonade-like appearance that might be confused with unfiltered sake. Try this lightly chilled with a sea urchin custard or simple abalone sauté. Or save this sparkler for the finale, such as a tropical fruit sorbet.

Rating: 14.5/20
Price: About $99-$120 per 720 ml. bottle

Learn more about sake at www.sake-world.com
To purchase, visit Nishimoto Trading Company
Going to Japan?

August 6 , 2004

2002 Dutton Goldfield Pinot Noir—Dutton Ranch

The good people at Dutton Goldfield are playing the single-vineyard designate game for their Pinot program, starting with this release. Everything is handcrafted here, and this time they have produced 1,400 cases. This is definitely a big boy delivering a cornucopia of scents and flavors. You get all of your red fruits. The wine is dark and robust but well balanced. It’s an enjoyable beverage, but we are still far from Dijon here. Consider it a great wine overall for your summer foods.

Rating: 15/20
Price: $35

Other Pinot Noirs
To purchase, visit www.duttongoldfield.com

July 30 , 2004

2002 Chateau La Paws Petite Sirah

Here is a racy offering from the folks of Rosenblum Cellars. Grapes come from a variety of premium vineyards in California, and the pedigree here is premium as well. Considering the price, this a refreshing offering. Honestly, when were you last rubbed by a Petit Syrah? A strong dark tannic wine which will benefit from ageing, it fills your mouth fully, and delivers layers of flavors. Herb crusted meat dishes would work well along with dry sheep cheeses.

Rating: 14/20
Price: $15

Other Reds
To purchase, visit www.rosenblumcellars.com

July 23 , 2004

2002 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc

Here comes the top white offering from the Franco-American joint venture of the Haas and Perrin families. They have scoped out a limestone plot on the Central Coast, imported their very own plant material from France and designated themselves as part of a special growers association. This is a thoroughbred of a wine with distinct character and it's quite unique for California. Slightly chilled, the crisp and bright wine will give you scents of white flowers, pears and peaches. Good balance and a medium body allied with flavors of honey, apricots and peach delivers a pleasant moment in the mouth that lingers. Mediterranean food lovers will love it with any of their summer meals.

Rating: 15.5/20
Price: $35

Other Whites

July 16, 2004

2001 Craneford Riesling

John Zilm produces a bunch of one-off cuvees down under. Most of the interestingly creative stuff does not make it to the US market, like his sparkling Shiraz, an assemblage of Shiraz, Petit Verdot and old port Liqueur. Here is a crisp, ultra-refreshing, steely Riesling that can be had at a reasonable price. A positively bright, pale straw-colored beverage greets you with scents of citrus, petals and greenish things. In the mouth you get a medium bodied, low alcohol and somewhat tart Granny Smith apple taste. Perfect for a summer lunch with crab salad and avocado.

Rating: 13.5/20
Price: $12

More Rieslings
Going to Australia?

July 9, 2004

Silver Spur Wines 2002 Chardonnay

Want to try a wine that captures the spirit of the American West? Here is a brand new offering from an emerging boutique winery that gathers fruits from the Los Carneros appellation. This Chardonnay is totally handcrafted and aged in oak beautifully (but not overdone) for 10 months. You get a crisp and refreshing wine for your summer barbecue. A nice golden color, it is rich, full bodied and packed with fruit flavors such as pear, pineapple, vanilla, butter and light spices. It tastes a little hot but will hold well against food and has a long progressive finish.

Rating: 13.5/20
Price: $18

Other Chardonnays

July 2 , 2004

Mumm Napa Cuvée M
(48% Chardonnay, 43% Pinot Noir, 6% Pinot Gris, 3% Pinot Meunier)

Don't let the French name fool you, this is an American Classic. Once again, Mumm’s Sparkling wines have tickled our taste buds with this fruity offering from grapes of more than fifty separate vineyards in the Napa Valley. Graceful streams of bubbles rise, adding to layers of rich crisp textures and a light rose hue, due to the high percentage of Pinot Noir. The nose reveals delicate aromas of ripe peach, pear and strawberry, with hints of rich white chocolate, creamy vanilla and honey that linger on the palate to form a nice long finish. Enjoy this one as an apéritif or pair it with your shrimp on the barbie.

Rating: 13/20
Price: $20

More Sparkling Wines

June 25 , 2004

Geyser Peak 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Block Collection

We liked this wine quite a bit and would urge anyone to pick up one of the 470 cases produced. The wine comes from a rough terroir and once you cut through the concentration of colors and flavors, you are left with descriptions such as dark, deep ruby, dark cherry, blackcurrant, medium body, minty eucalyptus, smooth, soft tannins, lingering finish and chocolate. Yeah, that was a mouthful to which you could add braised oxtail. In short, this is a good deal considering the retail price.

Rating: 16.5/20
Price: $36

More Cabernet Sauvignons

June 18, 2004

Brassfield 2003 Clear Lake Pinot Grigio

Clear Lake, California? Yes there are quite a few vineyards up there. As a matter of fact many Napa wineries source their fruit there and it’s not that far away either. With outstanding volcanic soils and a stupefying cooling lake effect, this newcomer benefits from a privileged terroir. Look for interesting bottles coming from the future High Valley AVA. For now, we bring to you, in time for summer cooling, a crisp, clear and refreshing Pinot Grigio with a sweet nose. The wine is packed with tropical flavors of pineapple, mango and lychee. A medium body reveals good structure and nice acid balance. As a matter of fact, a tart character comes to the back of our mouths. We’ve had it with garlic noodles and black cod.

Rating: 13/20
Price: $15

More Pinot Grigios

June 11 , 2004

Rancho Arroyo Grande 2002 Thereza Cuvée
(37% Syrah, 33% Mourvedre, 15% Grenache, 15%Cournoise)

Here you go: 460 cases of a new offering from the Central Coast. This is an estate program from the Saucelito Canyon, which aspires to deliver the best Southern Rhône offering in California. The Thereza Cuvée, albeit still very young, will be a pleasant wine. Give it a couple of years in the bottle and you’ll have something quite nice. The aromas showcase an earthy terroir, with berries and spice. A well-balanced medium body leads you to a long finish. Match it up with a peppered steak followed with Camembert.

Rating: 13/20
Price: $20

More Rhône Varietals

June 6 , 2004

Burrell School 2001 Cabernet Franc

Here is a delectable handcrafted wine from a new producer in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The source of the fruit is linked to some of the oldest Cabernet Franc plantings in the state. You get a beverage with soft tannins and great berry flavors with a hint of pepper on a progressive finish. Pair it with a skirt steak.

Rating: 14/20
Price: $28

Other Cabernet Francs we've tasted
More about Burrell School

May 28, 2004

2001 Marilyn Remark Grenache

There are simply not too many Grenache wines floating around and certainly a lot less from California. If you like that varietal, here is a treat for you. Joel Burnstein, formerly of San Saba and Jekel, has set up his very own production of Rhône varietals, only in the Monterey AVA. For this first release, the happy few (228 cases) will discover a good-looking, complex wine with a nose of cherry, blueberry and boysenberry. A strong medium body and a lasting finish will delight the early drinker, as you might not want to hold on to this one too long. Pair it with fish, pork or raspberry desserts.

Rating: 15/20
Price: $45

"Other Reds" of note

May 21, 2004

2001 Sadler-Wells Pinot Noir

Sadler-Wells Winery, a project of industry veterans Cindy Kenton and Jean Spear, has specialized in quality, handcrafted Sonoma Coast wines since 1998. Their newest release, the 2001 Pinot Noir, was aged for 18 months in French oak, and 500 cases were released in November of 2003. Rose petals and herbs in the nose are complemented by the red berries and spices, which characterize this medium-bodied wine. Try with simple roasted or grilled poultry and meat. Too many spices would overpower the wine. We enjoyed this wine but would keep it for another five years.

Rating: 14/20
Price: $30

Other Pinot Noirs of note

May 14 , 2004

Saucelito Canyon 2001 Zinfandel Reserve

The Greenoughs have resurrected what were the oldest plantings of Zinfandel on the Central Coast. In Arroyo Grande, you get those warm summer days and some cool nights due to the proximity of the Pacific. You are talking of a labor of love here with only a total of 2000 cases (mostly Zinfandels and some Cabernet Sauvignon) produced each year in a dry-farmed environment. The result is a good fruit concentration for this dark, slightly brown wine with a silky feel. Zinfandel aficionados should not pass this offering up, with its layers of raspberry, dark chocolate, vanilla and a bit of spice -- and a very long finish. Good acid is here to balance the alcohol (16%), and be careful as you may catch yourself drinking it plentifully. Enjoy with venison and BBQ'd zucchini.

Rating: 15/20
Price: $28

More about Saucelito Canyon Vineyard...

May 7 , 2004

EPONYMOUS 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon

Things do change over time. Having sold his eponymous winery and not able to use his name for a while, Robert Pepi got his new label going, and it's called: EPONYMOUS. This ultra-premium level entry is a great concentrated and extracted juice product. A deep red color sets the pace for a wine that reveals itself a bit lighter in the mouth than you'd expect, with a medium to full body and long legs. Dark berries, chocolate, light spices and smokey wood flavor characterize this new offering with a moderate finish. We do like the wine quite a bit and it could be a true winner in five years: Bravo Bob! Tri-tip anyone…?

Rating: 16/20
Price: $50

April 30, 2004

1999 Gruet Pinot Noir

Long before Laurent Gruet's family established their quality Champagne house in 1952 in France, there had been a longstanding tradition of winemaking in New Mexico dating back to the 17th century. In 1984, the family decided to expand the operation in New Mexico, convinced that the terroir could deliver. Over the year, we have appreciated their sparkling wines and recognized their value. Today Gruet sparklers are served everywhere from your house to the White House. Later, the winery added a small production of still wines, and with the 1999 vintage some Pinot Noir. Our bottle delivered an interesting array of flavors reflecting the terroir. A somewhat earthy character with dark red fruit and scents of wood. Once again, the Gruets deliver a great value. Go with light meats.

Rating: 13/20
Price: $24

Going to New Mexico?

April 23, 2004

2002 Orogeny Pinot Noir
Once again the Chalone Wine Group has chosen a Greek moniker (Acacia, Echelon, Dynamite etc.) for a new release. This Pinot Noir takes its name from the Greek Oro for mountain and Geny for birth, describing the process that created the terroir in which these grapes are grown. Dan Goldfield is the consulting winemaker from Dutton-Goldfield, and the Dutton family grows the grapes in the cool Green Valley of the Russian River. We like Pinots from this region, and this offering did not disappoint, either. What you get in the end is a small-production wine from a large group—put together by a talented team at a reasonable price. Only about 2000 cases were produced for this inaugural release. A deep, red colored juice with ripe fruit flavors will fill your mouth with pleasure. Also count on concentrated berries and ripe cherries in layers with discreet spices and a hint of caramel. Good acidity balance and fine but firm tannins lead to a progressive sweet, slightly smoky finish. How about some duck with wild mushrooms?
Rating: 14.5/20
Price: $25

April 16, 2004

2000 Chaddsford Merican
Honestly, when was the last time you had a Meritage from Pennsylvania? We just did, and here is what we have to report. We understand that 2000 was a tricky year for that part of the country; nevertheless, Chaddsford Winery managed to produce a beverage that is not over-oaked but delivers what that terroir has to offer. A rustic nose of ripe fruit is followed by a smooth mouthful of flavors along the lines of chocolate milk and yellow to red fruits. At 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, you get your full Bordeaux experience. Only 500 cases were produced. We think it would go fine with a pork chop.
Rating: 13/20
Price: $38

April 9, 2004

1999 La Motte Musique
Bordeaux in the Cape: Destination South Africa. Huguenots spread around the world in the late 1600's and, as a result, a Frenchman by the name of Pierre Joubert set up a farm on the bank of the Franschhoek River and kept the name from his farm in the Old Country. Fast forward to 1970, when the Rupert family built a modern facility. For this limited Cuvée, La Motte selected four of the five Bordeaux varietals in a staggered assemblage. You get a deep red, well-balanced beverage with complex flavors of blackberry and chocolate. Consistent and full-bodied in the mouth, you also enjoy a progressive finish with hints of peppery spices. Get a couple of bottles, drink one with a good steak and leave the other one to rest for a few years.
Rating: 14/20
Price: $25

April 2, 2004

Estancia 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Not your boutique winery but a winery with a boutique wine in mind—especially if you consider some of the sister products (Quintessa, Franciscan etc.) With 110,000 cases produced, you should be able to find it easily. This wine comes from a hostile terroir and the result is a deep ruby color, more red berry than floral character with hints of toasted oak and spicy notes. If you are in the market for a pleasant, not over-the-top good value, try a bottle with a good steak and finish with some cheese.
Rating: 13.5/20
Price: $14

March 26, 2004

2002 AntiqV2S Garys' Vineyard Syrah
Here is a prime example of a handcrafted wine—and a good one, to boot. First of all, special care was taken with terroir selection (Santa Lucia Highlands) as well as good grapes and fine winemaking techniques. Only about 200 cases were produced, so the price is (almost) irrelevant—especially if you find yourself liking the wine. What's to like? A dark beverage with fruity character, ranging from ripe raspberries to blackberries laced with some spice. Most pleasant in the mouth with a medium to full body and a lingering finish, you could pair it with short ribs.
Rating: 15.5/20
Suggested retail price: $48

March 19, 2004

Field Stone 2000 Sangiovese
The proprietors were enamored with Italian wines, and they wanted to produce something nice. At 1,200 cases produced it's special for sure. This is a non-pretentious wine that you can drink by itself. Keep it slightly cooled and you will still discover its rich red fruit flavor: strawberry, ripe cherry and plum. Pair it with pasta dishes and you'll enjoy its crisp finish. Truly a good value.
Rating: 13/20
Suggested retail price: $18

March 12, 2004

1997 El Gran Vino Tinto
We have been tasting Mexican wine for a while and have retained the wine of Château Camou to stand out on the Baja Penisula. This is your traditional Bordeaux blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, aged in barrels before the assemblage and left to settle in the bottle for 15 months prior to its release. Already a mature wine at the time of release, it will age for another five years without a doubt. It gets hot in Mexico, but there is a good balance and the alcohol level remains at 13 percent, leaving the fruit to express itself. The juice certainly reflects the terroir, and you get a bit dark, floral, but somewhat spicy wine with cassis and coffee tone. A smooth finish becomes a nice touch. Serve it with steak fajitas.
Rating: 13.5/20
Suggested retail price: $29

Louis Jadot 2002 Domaine de la Chapelle aux Loups—Saint Veran
If you are lucky enough to get a hold of one of these bottles of fine Chardonnay, you will discover its subtle floral bouquet. A quick look at the pale yellow color reveals the harsh limestone bedrock conditions under which these grapes are grown. Citrus, pineapple and even hazelnut flavors fill your mouth. This is a well-rounded, dry Chardonnay that won't hit you over the head. It is a great value. The terroir really expresses itself and delivers a wine with great character. Serve it with langoustine salad.
Rating: 15/20
Suggested retail price: $15

February 27, 2004

2001 L'Aventure Estate Cuvée
We often speak about complex wine. How about blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Syrah, and Zinfandel? That's exactly what Stephane Asseo has done with the first release of his Estate Cuvée. The grapes come from his very specific vineyard with quite a special terroir. The wine is big, robust and full of flavors—as you can imagine. It's certainly unique. Those of you that have to drink it now, you may do so, but remember this is one in the tradition of some of the best Bordeaux wines. Lay it aside for a while, and get it out for a big steak occasion.
Rating: 16/20
Suggested retail price: $75

February 20, 2004

2001 Gargiulo Vineyards Aprile Super Oakville Blend
How about a Tuscan offering from Napa? The soon-to-be-completed boutique family winery in Oakville has brought to market a Cab that fetched top dollars at the 2003 Napa Valley Wine Auction. We have sampled its elegant Sangiovese cousin and found a nice, red, not-too-dark juice with a fine nose unleashing hints of light berries and red fruits. In the mouth, a medium body wine, lightly spiced, reveals the premium California terroir. We like its balance and layered finishes. Age it for five years or so; we think it will open up. Serve it with lighter meats.
Rating: 14.5/20
Suggested retail price: $25

February 13, 2004

2000 Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon
Here is an ultra-premium wine without an ultra-premium price. Sure, it's still young, but you can already enjoy the complex aromatics of dark berries, mocha and an agile dosage of wood. A rich wine that won't knock you over with alcohol due to its balance, it is sure to impress your friends but won't break the bank at the same time. This is one of the best values we've come across. Keep an eye out for other offering from Darioush. We loved its supple tannins and long finish. Ready for steak?
Rating: 16.5/20
Suggested retail price: $68

February 6, 2004

Provenance Vineyards 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
This richly structured Cab spent 17 months in the barrels—the 15 percent American Oak at work here are most likely responsible for its charming woody element. It's rich but not abrasive with a nice, full plum and sweet raisin finish. Give it a some years or, if you want it now, enjoy with cheese or a serious meat dish.
Rating: 14.5/20
Suggested retail price: $35

January 30, 2004

DeLille Cellars 2000 Chaleur Estate
Super big and concentrated, this Yakima Valley wine will have to age for some time… and it might be a good thing. If you can get your hands on a bottle you will discover the richness and robust tannins in this handcrafted lush wine. Did we mention heavyweight yet? Please wait at least ten years and you'll be able to appreciate the vision behind this Bordeaux blend. Chris Upchurch loves France and what is done there wine wise so much that he wants to replicate the Grand Cru esprit and quality. If you must drink it now go with a nice peppered steak.
Rating: 14.5/20
Suggested retail price: $58

January 23, 2004

Acorn 2000 Sangiovese
Old grape, new wine—sort of. Due to recent plantings in California we are able to experience the Tuscan grape right here in the U.S. Great in blends, but nice on its own, we might be seeing more and more of it. Here is a fine example albeit from 50-year-old vines in the Russian River Valley. Complexity of aromas and taste have been boosted by the addition of minute quantities of Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo Toscano. This wine is as elegant as it is fragrant and balanced. A long finish with slight smokiness adds a nice dimension. Because of the floral tones and subtle character, we would pair it with fish and light meats. At this price, we had nothing to complain about.
Rating: 13.5/20
Suggested retail price: $16

January 16, 2004

Dutton Goldfield 2001 Cherry Ridge Vineyard Syrah Russian River Valley
Vineyard designate wines are in. Here are 250 cases (only) worth of this delectable juice made by the expert winemaking team of Steve Dutton and Dave Goldfield. Could the key to such a nice beverage be a cool climate? Perhaps, but special care and dedication can't hurt, either. What you get is a good-looking glass that greets you with a berry and slight pepper nose, followed by a sweet tip-of-the-tongue kiss. In the mouth, you get a perfect weight and good balance of acidity and alcohol (13.5 percent). Ripe blackberries work your palate to progressively finish with supple tannins and woody tones. Sure, you can pair it with lamb, but me might also suggest tuna and even monkfish.
Rating: 15/20
Suggested retail price: $35

January 9, 2004

Ravenswood 2001 Old Hill Zinfandel
Good balance is achieved in this smart blend: about 80 percent Zinfandel from Sonoma's oldest vineyards. It would push over the edge any Zinfandel doubter due to it roundness. A treasure chest of dark fruit flavors greets you, and the supple and tame juice is simply a delight to sip on. It's a wonderful thing to drink old wines and even more wonderful to drink wines from old vines. Snatch up a bottle and pair it with veal or chicken dishes.
Rating: 15.5/20
Suggested retail price: $55

January 2, 2004

Slaley 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot
When might have been the last time you tried a Bordeaux blend from South Africa? Here is a fine example of what a small production house can do. A deep ruby color greets you, followed by a nice nose of ripe berries and caramel. The wine packs in some good tannins in a medium to full body build. We found good balance and acidity, with terroir characteristics delivering an earthy product with leathery and barnyardy overtones. A progressive finish reveals cigar box and a light peppery feel. This intriguing beverage will probably peak in five years but could age longer. We recommend it with red or gamy meats like venison.
Rating: 14/20
Suggested retail price: $23